A deep-water swell is a partitioned circle dance: each parcel loops forward at
the crest, backward in the trough, and barely at all near the seabed โ orbit radius decays as e^(โkz), so at
depth ฮป/2 it's ~4% of the surface value. That's why submarines dive to escape storms. The deep-water speed
formula is beautifully simple: c = 1.25โฮป (ฮป in metres, c in m/s) โ long swells outrun short chop, which
is why big clean surf arrives first, hours ahead of the storm that made it.
Run the depth slider down: once depth < ฮป/2 the orbits flatten into ellipses, speed
depends only on depth (c = โ(gd)), the front slows before the back โ wavelength shrinks, height grows, crest
outpaces its base and the wave breaks when depth โ 1.3 ร wave height. Tsunamis are the extreme shallow
case: in 4,000 m ocean they're ordinary-looking waves moving at โ(9.81ร4000) โ 200 m/s โ jet speed.