๐ŸŒŠ Ocean Waves โ€” The Secret Orbital Motion

Water in a swell doesn't travel โ€” each parcel runs in a circle while the wave shape races on. Watch the orbit shrink with depth, then shallow the water until orbits squash and the wave breaks.

Wave speed
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Regime
deep water
๐Ÿ“– Key facts

A deep-water swell is a partitioned circle dance: each parcel loops forward at the crest, backward in the trough, and barely at all near the seabed โ€” orbit radius decays as e^(โˆ’kz), so at depth ฮป/2 it's ~4% of the surface value. That's why submarines dive to escape storms. The deep-water speed formula is beautifully simple: c = 1.25โˆšฮป (ฮป in metres, c in m/s) โ€” long swells outrun short chop, which is why big clean surf arrives first, hours ahead of the storm that made it.

Run the depth slider down: once depth < ฮป/2 the orbits flatten into ellipses, speed depends only on depth (c = โˆš(gd)), the front slows before the back โ†’ wavelength shrinks, height grows, crest outpaces its base and the wave breaks when depth โ‰ˆ 1.3 ร— wave height. Tsunamis are the extreme shallow case: in 4,000 m ocean they're ordinary-looking waves moving at โˆš(9.81ร—4000) โ‰ˆ 200 m/s โ€” jet speed.